HISTORY, BEAUTY, LUXURY: RETREATING TO THE SAVOY MUSSOORIE

Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, The Savoy Mussoorie, is a gem of a stay in a gem of a town, writes Sundeep Bhutoria

“When words fail, music speaks.”
You’ll find these words on a board atop a historic piano at the Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, The Savoy Mussoorie. They quite aptly capture the charm and indescribable allure of one of India’s most popular hill stations.

Known as the Queen of the Hills, An Author’s Retreat and Lover’s Paradise, Mussoorie has earned several monikers over time. It touches each soul in a unique way, and my personal enchantment became evident the moment I laid eyes on that plaque and the piano. With a love for music, I immediately recognised this exquisite piece as one of the finest creations from Schiedmayer & Soehne, later learning that it had been carried to its present location on human shoulders. Balthazar Schiedmayer began making pianos in Erlangen near Stuttgart in 1735, producing high-quality instruments noted for their stunning build and impressive musicality. Today, Schiedmayer pianos of all eras are treasured by connoisseurs for their musical quality, and this upright piano dates back to 1895

The instrument became the perfect backdrop for my stay in Mussoorie, with mesmerising and beautiful views of the Himalayan peaks in the western Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. Situated at an elevation of 2,000 meters above sea level, Mussoorie’s 15-kilometre-long horseshoe ridge offers an unforgettable view of the Himalayas. In 1827, two Britishers, Captain Frederick Young and F.J. Shore, climbed up the hill from the Doon Valley and discovered this ridge with its breathtaking views and equally attractive climate.

While Mussoorie has retained its natural beauty and peaceful surroundings over the years, it has also undergone significant development since Uttarakhand became a state in 2000. Improved connectivity has transformed the town in many ways. It now boasts excellent schools that attract students from across India, and it has become a haven for authors and artists drawn to its serene environment. One of the most famous residents is Ruskin Bond, the renowned author. I had the opportunity to visit him at his home, as well. And actor Victor Banerjee, my neighbour in Kolkata, spends much time there too, completing my Bengal connection to the town.

My first visit to Mussoorie was when I was in school, but I was so young that I can barely recall anything. What brought me back this time was a CSR committee meeting of a public sector company. I stayed at Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, The Savoy Mussoorie, and words simply fall short in capturing the splendour of my experience. Offering breathtaking views from every room, Welcomhotel The Savoy is an elegant and historic hotel built in the English Gothic style. Irish barrister Cecil D. Lincoln opened the hotel, known simply as The Savoy, in 1902. It quickly became a favourite retreat for British officers and their families seeking respite from the plains’ heat.

This century-old landmark seamlessly blends old-world charm with modern conveniences, boasting several unique features. At the top of the list is the hotel’s own post office, making it perhaps the only hotel in India with such a facility. The Savoy Post Office has been operational since 1902 and even has its own postal code. Mussoorie and the hotel were popular among the British, and the administrators wanted guests to have easy access to postal services. Over the years, the post office has become a tourist attraction in its own right, drawing visitors who wish to send postcards with the unique Savoy postmark. The post office is still run by the Indian Postal Service and functions like any regular post office. One can buy stamps, mail letters and postcards, and even have parcels picked up and delivered. It’s a quirky reminder of the hotel’s rich history. Even in today’s digital age, it keeps alive the tradition of handwritten communication.

No matter what state of mind you might be in, the very first steps into the hotel transport one back in time. The high ceilings, wooden furniture, and vintage decor create an old-world charm that is hard to resist. With stunning views of the Himalayan mountains from most of its rooms and public areas, waking up to the sight of the peaks in the distance is an experience one can never forget. You also can’t help but notice the grand, ornate billiard table situated in the corner. It commands attention, drawing your eye with its rich mahogany finish, mother-of-pearl inlay and intricate detailing. That table was made in Kolkata in 1820 and was carried by porters all the way to Mussoorie. I was told that movie actor Mithun Chakraborty was the chief guest at the event when they re-launched the billiard room along with author Ganesh Saili.

General manager Gautam Valli gave me a tour of the property and showed me the new wing, which will be operational before the end of this year. It will add a Presidential suite to the inventory. The lavish gardens spread over several acres feature manicured lawns, flower beds, and tall deodar trees.

The Savoy, which was renamed The Savoy Hotel in 1920, claims to be the oldest hotel in the country. Incidentally, Taj Westend Bengaluru also stakes a claim to this title, but Welcomhotel The Savoy has the proof! The guest list is also a veritable who’s who of the world’s personalities across generations and includes no less than viceroys, maharajas, and famous authors such as Rudyard Kipling, amongst others. The lobby, dining halls and rooms feature beautiful woodwork and Victorian decor in every nook and corner, which stand as living embodiments of the past. Some of the preferred culinary traditions of colonial times continue as well, such as high tea served with scones, jam and clotted cream.

The hotel ultimately came into the possession of the present owners, and Welcomhotel The Savoy was renovated and restored between 2009 and 2013. Today, it offers modern amenities alongside its rich history. Guests can enjoy curated heritage walks around the hotel to learn about the moments in history it has witnessed and its famous patrons. Again, literature reigns supreme as countless authors have graced the establishment, and there is even a walk proudly proclaiming the name of the authors in the vintage Writer’s Bar. The hotel also has a cosy library and a collection of old photographs, and hosts screenings of movies and documentaries.

Incidentally, an hour-long documentary about the hotel titled ‘Savoy: Saga of an Icon’, has bagged the best documentary and best cinematography awards at the 10th Dada Saheb Phalke Film Festival Awards 2020. The hotel’s ties with tinsel town go beyond this too, as more than 50 Hindi movies have already been shot here.

What is truly remarkable is how the hotel has painstakingly restored the endless amount of wood on the premises. Now, we all know how difficult, expensive and meticulous a task this can be, and I bow my head to what has been achieved.

The hotel’s large imperial dining room and ballroom, which was the talk of the town in its heyday, continue to be just as impressive now. An example of the finest level of restoration and diligence while keeping alive the charm of an era gone by, impeccable service and a spectacular location all blend to make this hotel what it is — a gem of the greatest order.

I happened to meet Sanjiv Puri, ITC’s chairman, the same day I checked out, as we both were flying back to Kolkata from Delhi on the same flight. Puri confessed that while he had not yet stayed at Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, The Savoy Mussoorie, he was aware of every detail of its restoration. It is clearly a precious addition to the chain, even though it is one of the smallest establishments in their kitty.

This article was also published in https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/places/history-beauty-luxury-retreating-to-the-the-savoy-mussoorie/cid/1944059