August 24, 2023
CHANDIGARH: INDIA’S CITY OF BEAUTY
A creation of Le Corbusier on the lines of classical Rome, Chandigarh is now more than the sum of its parts, Sundeep Bhutoria discovers
The tag of being one of the best planned cities in modern India undoubtedly rests heavily on Chandigarh’s shoulders. Its reputation precedes it, which is why recent reports of significant waterlogging in the city have left many like me baffled.
I recall how, during my first visit there, I had gone on a leisurely stroll around the city and found parallels with the Quebec province of Canada, thanks to the yellow and reddish leaves that lay strewn along the walkways. That allure, that charm that I had admired so much, is corroded today when I see the waterlogging which has created such havoc in the city. Around 300mm of rain over two days was enough to expose the flaws of such advanced thought and urban planning and it was found that the sectors above 30 can deal with only 15mm of rain, while those below can contend with 25mm of rain per hour. The city’s drainage system is not geared toward heavy rains and so waterlogging is but a foregone conclusion.
What is even more disconcerting is that the N-Choe, the seasonal stream that helps deal with the stormwater, had not been levelled well enough to allow the heavy flow of water to go out. Again, many sectors had blocked the flow of the accumulated water by adding “tourist attractions” which further aggravated the situation. Such lack of foresight does not befit a city that presents a very advanced image of itself to the world.
Lying as it does near the foothills of the Himalayas, some 260km north of New Delhi and 229km southeast of Amritsar, Chandigarh today is home to many renowned individuals from all strata of society, including serving or retired government officials. The idea of Chandigarh makes it an aspirational destination for the crème de la crème, and that’s not entirely without reason.
The sense of order is hard to miss, especially because most major urban areas of the country are in disarray and, at the cost of raising hackles, in utter chaos. A creation of the feted Le Corbusier on the lines of classical Rome, the master plan of the tri-city was conceived as a living organism, a human body complete with a head, torso and limbs. Segregated into 56 sectors connected through wide boulevards and ample greenery, parks and avenues that cloak modern concrete structures in green, each sector has its own share of amenities and centres of education, health care, restaurants and cafes. These are the credentials of the city as one of the greatest experiments in the contemporary history of planning and architecture.
My second visit to the city was more of a stopover as I was headed to the Baralacha region, the high mountain pass in the Zanskar range, connecting Lahaul district in Himachal Pradesh to Leh. Now, Chandigarh is also the gateway to Himachal and thus plays host to countless tourists and offers a comfortable night halt before one heads off towards the lofty mountains. That was what necessitated my second stopover too, as there was a flight from Chandigarh to Kullu’s Bhuntar airport, the small domestic airport about 11km from Kullu town and 52km from Manali.
Chandigarh is a complex place, administratively speaking. It is a tri-city, or an amalgamation of three cities that works as one. These include Mohali, Panchkula and the area of Chandigarh itself. Between the years 1952 and 1966, Chandigarh was the capital of Punjab, but then Haryana was created, and it too claimed the city as its capital. To avoid trouble, they declared Chandigarh a Union Territory in 1966. Since 1984, the Governor of Punjab was tasked with the administration of Chandigarh as adviser to the administration and, as per constitutional provisions, state assembly elections are not held, and one seat is allocated to the UT of Chandigarh. At present, the city is governed by a civic administration that is headed by a municipal commissioner and a mayor, and it is divided into 35 wards represented by as many elected councillors and nine nominated councillors.
Chandigarh is named after the Hindu Goddess Chandi, while ‘Garh’ means ‘fortress’. There is an ancient Chandi Mandir in Panchkula district which might be the source of this name.
As a seasoned traveller and a connoisseur of good hotel stays, my first inclination is always to head to the best hotels and, in more cases than one, I have landed at the Taj Group’s doorstep as a Chambers member. This time, however, research suggested that the Taj in Chandigarh might need an overhaul. With more exciting options now available, I stayed at the newly renovated Hyatt Centric Hotel. It was an experience that left me pleasantly surprised and suitably impressed.
Hyatt Centric Chandigarh
A fine statement in luxury, Chandigarh city’s Hyatt Centric is a perfect symbiosis of Punjab’s enviable spirit of welcome and refined elegance with a stunning display of French architecture. There are many points of attraction in the hotel and its contemporary façade combines artistic flourishes with deft touches of minimalism that are so synonymous with the city. As for the food on offer, Hyatt Centric dishes out a gastronomic delight each time through its multi-cuisine three-meal restaurant, Corby’s.
What made my visit even more memorable was the fact that during my stay, the hotel management readily opened the yet-to-be-inaugurated Asian restaurant, Koyo Koyo, for me to host some of my acquaintances in the city including my old friend late comedian Jaspal Singh Bhatti’s wife Savita Bhatti, artist Mitul Dixit, art curator Mehek Bhan and singer Sunaini Guleria Sharma. The special style of cooking over the charcoal robatayaki grill was both entertaining to watch and led to delicious results that were appreciated by all.
And before I close, I must also recommend Chandigarh’s famous Pal Dhaba, as regardless of hygiene concerns, this is an experience no one should miss.
Apra Kuchhal
This article was published in The Telegraph