October 1, 2024
An epicurean trail through London
There is no denying that when it comes to food or theatre, despite its myriad issues, London puts up a great show, writes Sundeep Bhutoria
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Sundeep Bhutoria (third from right) with (L-R) Sangeeta Datta, Shekhar Kapur, Shabana Azmi, Javed Akhtar, Suhel Seth, Abhishek Khaitan and Soumilya Datta before a dinner at the House of Ming, in London
A while ago, I wrote about London and its changing perspectives, and I was rather hard on the current state of affairs. Yes, many changes have occurred in recent decades and not all have been beneficial to the city or its residents and visitors. But as a great admirer of the city, I am also extremely lucky to be familiar with some of the real jewels in the crown.
London’s multicultural nature means it is a hub for gourmet food from across the world. There is no denying that when it comes to food, despite its myriad issues, London puts up a great show with a choice of local, Indian, Chinese, Italian, Mediterranean, African and every possible cuisine of the world.
London’s culinary scene is renowned for its unparalleled variety, embracing even those flavours that are difficult to find outside their own specific homelands. Many Indian travellers say one can eat better Indian cuisine in Dubai and London than in India itself.
As air travel gradually resumed after the pandemic, Indians flocked to London. Visits to top restaurants and theatres weren’t merely about enjoyment but also fodder for social media feeds. In the summer of 2022, one of the hottest destinations to be seen was surely Novikov. With both an Asian and an Italian restaurant at the same address, it’s remained a top draw. Novikov’s Italian restaurant has an imposing wood-fired oven, an aura that is accentuated with suede wall panelling, mirrors in solid oak frames and rustic chandeliers. The menu offers regional dishes with a contemporary twist and the restaurant is an even bigger hit as its downstairs Lounge Bar stays open till the early hours.
Another popular spot is Hakkasan, the Michelin-starred modern Chinese cuisine restaurant for those in search of a little extravagance. Opened in 2001 by the famed Alan Yau, the brains behind the city’s Wagamama Japanese restaurants and the Yauatcha restaurant, this popular eatery serves haute Chinese cuisine in an upscale format.
Shopaholics from India also make a beeline for Harrods Pizzeria & Pasqua and Brasserie of Light at Selfridges, both of which have great food and a chic ambience. Even though a lengthy queue forms at the Pizzeria at Harrods, few will go across the road from Gate No 4, which offers equally delightful pizzas with the allure of al fresco dining.
Ishbilia and Al Waha, two establishments offering Lebanese cuisine, were also highly sought-after during the summer of 2022. As an aficionado of Lebanese fare myself, I found these options to be top-notch, visiting them multiple times during my stay. Since Ishbilia restaurant opened in 1998, owner and chef Mohamed Alkhlaifaoui (Abu Mahmoud) has built a reputation for producing the finest and most authentic Lebanese cuisine in London. Al Waha restaurant also serves Lebanese fare of the highest order. It’s in a rather small corner setup, a reminder of how Lebanese food should be – traditionally and painstakingly prepared and always a joy to eat.
This year, too, I visited London after the peak months of May and June and could explore its culinary landscape anew. My London address of over 20 years has been the Taj 51 Buckingham Gate. This time round, I experienced the charm of the House of Ming, where I had the privilege of hosting an evening for renowned individuals such as Javed Akhtar, Shabana Azmi, Shekhar Gupta, Suhel Seth and Mehrnawaz Avari amongst others. Housed at St James Court, a Taj Hotel, it opened in May and is inspired by regional Sichuan and Cantonese cooking. Chef Sujoy, who was once the executive chef at Taj Bengal, leads the team now.
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Chef Sujoy at the House of Ming; (right) some of the restaurant’s offerings
The restaurant opened under the direction of an outstanding team with a wealth of experience working in kitchens in Hong Kong, China and London. The menu has been carefully curated with culinary additions specific to London, including an impressive selection of vegetarian and vegan options. I must also mention the dedicated tea sommelier, and the unique tea trolley with a wide variety of Chinese white, green, black and oolong teas.
Another notable culinary venture is Bacchanalia at Mount Street, where, thanks to my Afghan friend and her valuable connections, I could secure a table for myself. This striking restaurant has renowned British artist Damien Hirst seamlessly blending his extraordinary sculptures with the sophisticated design envisioned by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. In all fairness, this is not merely a restaurant; it is a breathtaking feast for the senses, a gathering place to feel moved, immersed in another world. It is imagination on a glorious scale.
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Sundeep Bhutoria with his friend Lubna Hussain at the Bacchanalia restaurant
There is an awe-inspiring collection of art pieces, including mesmerising mosaics, statues carved from Luna marble, and intricately hand-painted murals on the ceilings. Within the heart of the dining space, Hirst’s ingenuity takes centre stage with five celestial figures adorned with wings, lions, unicorns, and angels soaring above the room. These coexist alongside depictions of Medusa with her serpent-hair and Bacchus, the Roman deity of wine and agriculture. As guests explore the distinct chambers of the restaurant, they encounter spaces paying homage to various Greek gods and goddesses, further enhancing the immersive experience. As for food, it’s Mediterranean with the finest ingredients, with Greco-Roman classics being reimagined for the modern palate.
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At Hotel Cafe Royal with Mehrnavaz Avari, UK area director and general manager of Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Suites and Residences and St James Court Hotel, London
For vegetarians like me, I wholeheartedly recommend the newly opened Armenian restaurant Lusin, located opposite the Indian offering Jamawar. Lusin, which takes its name from the Armenian word for “moon”, is the latest addition to an established chain that pays homage to Armenian cuisine. Foodies who love Spanish cuisine as well as a view along with their choices must try Decimo, where Chef Peter Sanchez works his magic. And yes, for the perfect London afternoon tea, a delight as always – Hotel Café Royal at West End offers the best of vegetarian and eggless pastries.
Before concluding, no matter how many hackles are raised, I’d like to emphasise that our Indian cuisine stands above all. It’s a matter of pride to know that even at Wimbledon, you’ll find Chicken Tikka Masala and Masala Dosa prominently on the menu.
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One of the enticing menus offering Indian dishes at Wimbledon
Food aside, a visit to London remains incomplete without a taste of the rich theatre scene. Landmarks such as the National Theatre and Shakespeare’s Globe can both be found on the South Bank, the Barbican in the city, the Royal Court Theatre in Chelsea which specialises in new drama, and the Old Vic and Young Vic, both in Lambeth. I was fortunate to witness three remarkable productions: Patriots, Dr Semmelweis and Guys and Dolls. Mark Rylance’s turn in Dr Semmelweis has been acclaimed by The New York Times as some of the finest acting in the world.
All this to say, despite its decline in some areas, London’s magnetic appeal, flavoured with its culinary wonders and captivating theatre, continues to leave an indelible mark on any traveller, including this one.
This article was published in The Telegraph on 17.09.2023