A deep dive into what makes Ujjain a landmark city

One the oldest cities in the world – in the league of Athens, Rome and Varanasi – Ujjain is thick with history, culture and desi delicacies

Temples on the ghats of the Kshipra river, in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh

 

Ujjain is a city best known for being the home of the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga temple. But during my recent visit there, I had a chance to dive deep into what makes this city such a landmark. 

Ujjain is considered as sacred as Haridwar, Nashik, and Prayagraj by virtue of being one of the four sites where the ‘Amrit’ of immortality spilled after the churning of the ocean – the ‘Amrit-Manthan’ or ‘Samudra-Manthan’ of Hindu belief. It is also one the oldest cities in the world, very much in the league of Athens, Rome, Alexandria, Damascus, Babylon and Varanasi. An account by an unknown Greek merchant refers to it as a city called ‘Ozene’ lying to the east of Barygaza, present-day Bharuch – one that excelled in the trade of a variety of commodities such onyx, porcelain, fine muslin and cotton and spikenard.

 

How the city came to be

On the Kshipra River (also called Shipra) in Madhya Pradesh, Ujjain is on the Malwa Plateau. The city gained prominence from around 600 BC. Its present-day name is derived from the ancient names of Avantika and Ujjayini. The earliest known epigraphic record of the Paramaras, the Harsola Granth, issued at the beginning of the 10th century AD, maintains that the kings of the Paramara dynasty were born in the family of the Rastrakutas in the Deccan and the Udaypur Prasati mentions Vakpati I as the king of Avanti.

As time passed, Mamluk dynasty’s first ruler Iltutmish invaded Ujjain and triggered a systematic desecration and despoiling of temples. This tide of destruction stemmed only in the time of Baz Bahadur of Mandu. Thereafter, Mughal rule heralded a new era of reconstruction. Emperor Akbar put an end to Baz Bahadur’s hegemony over Malwa and had a city wall constructed for the defense of Ujjain. This is how the Nadi Darwaza, Kaliadeh Darwaza, Sati Darwaza, Dewas Darwaza and Indore Darwaza came into being and served as the various entrances to the city.

The observatory by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh, which consists of 13 architectural astronomy instruments

During the reign of Mahmud Shah, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh was made the Governor of Malwa. The Maharaja was a great scholar of astronomy and under his directives, the observatory at Ujjain was reconstructed as well as several other temples. Subsequently, Ujjain and Malwa went through another period of invasion and dominance at the hands of the Marathas, the influence of which led to modern Ujjain coming into being. Most of the temples we see in Ujjain today were constructed during this period.

Amongst these, mention must be made of the Kaliadeh Palace, located on the banks of the Kshipra river. The Avanti-mahatmya of Skanda Purana describes the Sun temple and two tanks here – Surya Kunda and Brahma Kunda. A fragmented inscription recovered from this place records the building of the palace here in 1458 AD, by the Sultan of Malwa, Mahmud Khilji. Built on a mound, the palace, itself a beautiful example of Persian architecture, offers a breathtaking glimpse of the lands around. Sultan Naseeruddin Khilji diverted the flow of the Kshipra river through 52 tanks so the water would cool down. Mughal emperor Jahangir is believed to have been a regular visitor to the palace, where he listened to the discourses of saint Jadrup, who stayed nearby. Even today, neighbouring villagers come for a regular dip to Surya Kund around which some ruined sections of the old temple can still be seen.

Part of the Kaliadeh Palace, located on the banks of the Kshipra 

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Ujjain is now a religious centre for followers of Saivism, Vaishnavism, and their various sects as well as Jainism and Buddhism. The Avanti Khanda of the Skanda Purana mentions innumerable temples that were consecrated to Goddess Shakti and her various forms. Along with this, the Siddha and the Natha cults which were offshoots of Tantrism, also flourished in Ujjain.

Once considered central meridian for time in India

Ujjain’s geographical location is also part of its legend. According to the 4th Century astronomical treatise the Surya Siddhanta, the city stands at the intersection of the zero meridian of longitude and the Tropic of Cancer. Ujjain was once considered the central meridian for time in India. Even today, as per Hindu belief, when a horoscope is prepared, the time as per the Surya Siddhanta is calculated. 

The Tropic of Cancer crosses the spire of the Mahakaleswar Temple as well. One of the 12 celebrated Jyotirlingas in India, its glory has been described in the Puranas. The linga in this temple is regarded as being ‘Swayambhu’ or having originated on its own, deriving its powers from within and is also called Dakshinamurti as it is the only one that faces south. Another notable feature is the ‘Shivnetra’ which is followed by Tantric believers.

The Tropic of Cancer crosses the spire of the Mahakaleswar Temple

A narrative on Ujjain cannot be complete without mention of India’s fabled poet Kalidas, who belonged to these lands. Kalidas’s love of Ujjayini comes forth in full strength in Meghdoot, his poetic creation of over 100 verses where an anguished yaksha, separated from his beloved by a curse, sends a message to her in the city of Alaka through an imaginary rain cloud. The poet’s words offer a vivid glimpse of the social diaspora of the city immersed in their rich philosophical and religious dispositions.

Another important part of this city’s heritage is ‘NBP’, or Northern Black Polished ceramicware. Often regarded as being among the best of the technically crafted pottery of ancient times, the name NBP is anachronistic as the form is neither northern, nor polished, and nor is it always black. Ranging from a brilliantly shining jet black to a deep grey or metallic blue brought about using either iron or carbon, this form of pottery eventually found its way to the northern Deccan from the Gangetic plains through Ujjain.

Sundeep Bhutoria at the Mahakaleshwar Temple

I cannot close this narrative without singing the praises of Ujjain’s many delicacies and eateries of repute. It offers an entire rainbow of food choices that never fail to mesmerise. In its modern-day avatar, Ujjain mornings are all about ‘Poha and Jalebi’: the ‘tasty starter’ stalls that pop out in every corner. Here I must mention New Bhole Namkeen Bhandar in Dabripeetha which is famous for the Khaman-Kadi and Bholaguru and Sons at Satigate, which serves delectable ghevar and feni. Sadly, their sweets are only available in the month of Shravan, but do not miss their landmark Makkhanwada. The sev of Ujjain is also legendary and, yes, ‘Ujjaini sev’ is different from ‘Ratlami sev’, ‘Indori sev’ and for that matter, all the other sevvarieties.

Bholaguru and Sons, at Satigate, serves delectable ghevar and feni

Kachori is intrinsic to the Ujjain palate, and these come in many varieties such as dal kachori, bhutta kachori (with a filling of fresh corn), mutter kachori, alu kachori, and pyaz kachori. Each eatery has its own style of serving kachoris along with an unforgettable chutney of mint, jaggery, tamarind, green chilli, dried mango, to name only a few. There is also the all-time favourite of Malwi food, the dal bafle laddoo. This is like dal-bati-churma, but is perhaps more delicious as it is made with lots of desi ghee and served with suji laddoo and mint chutney.

The dal bafle laddoo

Shivam Restaurant, near the Mahakaleshwar temple, stands tall among the vegetarian options and their detailed menu is sure to steer you in the right direction. In Ujjain city, the Imperial and Modak restaurants are worth every penny while the Shree Ganga, Shree Govindam Restaurant, Swaruchi Restaurant, Sathi Cafe, Hotel Anjushree – place where I stayed for a day, and of course, Bholaguru and Sons are surely worth visiting. If you are looking for desi ghee puri sabzi and desi ghee Makhanwada, head to Bhola Guru in Ramji ki Galli. You’ll leave happy.

 

This article was published in The Telegraph on 18.12.2023 https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/places/a-deep-dive-into-what-makes-ujjain-a-landmark-city/cid/1987740